(my survey consisted of my twinser and flare) and the deck is pretty flat, i used to own a tabou freestyle 80 (for the windier days) and it had a flat deck which was very uncomfortable and burned the legs trying to keep it flat, because there was nothing to bank my heel on. im no board shaping expert but all the new boards, even waveboards seem to be very flat without much extra kick at the nose. is it just me or does your new board have a really loooong flat section. ive been playing with AKU shaper previously linked somewhere on seabreeze, just vector curves with tags (similar to adobe illustrator), calculates volume and gives out measurements for any point, it seems to work best to use as little guide points as possible, just lets the maths make the nice curves. I downloaded the program but gave up as soon as i saw it open, to much grey!. with the boards i am tinkering with for myself, once built they would be measured to if they work. my voodoo has been measured so can be cnc milled. currently petes boards are being measured. there is a local guy who also has years of experience with windsurfers who has a cnc mill for sups/windsurfers etc. you could get them in full carbon or whatever if you like light and stiff. materials wise i get mine in timber veneer so they have a bit of flex which i like. edit* i forgot to answer your question about ride. skies the limit, other than that you can design it and give it to the shaper to spray. you could always paint your own graphics if you are artistic or get a mate to do it for you if they are artistic. recently i found a company in the us that will do a board size graphic for a good price but i am yet to get anything happening. can easily add a couple of hundred dollars for the small quanitity needed. we have also tried printed thin vynil but that is expensive. he sprays all of his boards so i provide him with laser cut templates that i produce in cad after tracing my coloured designs. i've spent a lot of time talking to pete about ways to get my designs onto his boards the easiest way possible. also when designing, 3d is easier as you can calc volume and get a better understanding of volume distribution prior to construction. a cnc machine will shape a board faster than a master shaper ready for hand finishing. at the end of the day even cnc boards need to be hand finished and if the finisher isn't an experienced shaper you will get a dodgey outcome. however an experienced shaper will not struggle with this at all. the only area i can see where cnc is more accurate is where the deck curves down to the rail and if the board has complicated concaves. rails are measured with stencils and shaped also. so the rocker and outline is the same from board to board. they are cut from a block of foam with a hot wire run along a template. because preshaped blanks were used all boards were done from start to finish by eye which meant tolerences weren't as accurate. it stems from when boards were polyester and built from preshaped blanks like surfboards. the hand shaped versus machine cut is a bit of a myth. He has them for around $1890 on his website, but please don't quote me as i don't know what retail is.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |